To the End of the Earth

The final three days on the camino were by far the best. After walking the most populated part of the walk, the final 5 stages before Santiago, where the tourism is at the highest point. Getting back to the open road with so few people is exactly the way you want to end a trip like this. The landscapes more beautiful. The time for contemplation longer, the eucalyptus groves, the pine forests, the huge rivers with old roman bridges, and then the best part of all, the ocean and its forgiving embrace to engulf your tired body. The albergues were nicer, the people who were walking were only the authentic pilgrims or even the really hardcore ones because it takes a hardcore pilgrim to walk to the end of the earth. The food amazing and the pure joy that you could see emanating from each persons face was like a supernova exploding in space. This was just sped up a bit more, as supernova's take quite a long time. the last day was most magical as it should be and I walked the final 3 kilometers barefoot after my dip in the ocean, on the private pilgrim beach. A friend of mine left me some OJ on the trail without even knowing it would be me who drank it. So magical. I really wanted some as I was feeling a little sick the last couple of days. Don't worry nothing could have held me back at that point. Upon arriving it began to rain as the camino wanted to wash away the past and help me embrace the new days to come. We had a wonderful dinner that night with 8 people sitting around the table smiling, telling stories (some about dogs) and drinking lots of wine. The wine flows in Spain, if you didn't already know that. We then retreated to the beach where I played the drum and we all celebrated like crazy. I did not end up burning my cloths as I had lost a bunch of them and needed what I had left to get through the next couple of days. ha!! The next day we walked to the Faro which is the lighthouse and gazed out at the large expansive ocean that I had walked so many kilometers to. It was a humbling feeling and I felt as though I would be here again in my life. This is only the first time. Who's coming with me?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!!!!

Dogs

Ok so this is a really important fact about the camino, there are a lot of dogs. Every small town or big city for that matter has numerous dogs. The camino friend that you don't always want to see. You want to see them on a leash or behind a fence, not running around a corner barking and showing its teeth. This is just one scenario that I had to deal with. It was funny because every pilgrim I talked to that night had to deal with the same angry white dog with the broken chain. The dogs in Spain bark all day and all night. I blame it on the owners as they don't get reprimanded for barking, but in the owners defense I think that's why they have the dog in the first place. To be the first line of defense against any intruders. It really gets old after a while though because every time you enter a town you know you will have to be confronted by dogs barking or maybe even running after you. This is where the purpose of the walking stick becomes multifunctional. I never had to use a stick in defense but you sure feel that much more confident walking into a city with a stick than just your hands and no possible way to run. ha So word to the wise bring some kibble or dog treats next time. I think the best way to get through the situation is befriending the animal, but have the stick just in case.

Santiago, 45 kilometers in one day and sleeping in a Field

Santiago!!!!
Well I arrived yesterday at 1pm in the afternoon. Only walked 5 kilometers as I spend the entire day before walking and well into the night. We walked until 3 in the morning and then found a field to sleep in so that the next day would be a short one. I had wanted to sleep outside at least one night so my dream came true. It was a bit cold but not to bad. As I got closer to the Cathedral I started playing my drum loudly in the streets as the excitement was monumental! When entering the plaza I sat down and pondered the meaning of all of this walking. I realized as we all do it is definitely not the destination but the journey I was searching for. Also I felt that this was not the end. As I am walking another 3 days to the ocean. It is a more fitting way for things to end. In the plaza people were hugging, taking pictures, smoking victory cigars, and congratulating each other it was amazing!!!
My body feels stronger than every and I actually am getting used to this daily routine and I could really continue if I had some time. There are at least 4 other routes that leave from Santiago. Next time, next time!! I hope some of you already realize that your coming with me next time. The city is beautiful and I have seen a lot of people that I had hoped to see again here at the ending point. A great group and the congratulations is amazing. I got a certificate yesterday, kinda cool but not that big of a deal. The real certificate is in my soul and on the souls of my feat. HA!!! Took a victory shot of tequila last night and they actually gave it to me for free. Also played my drum in the streets making music and interacting with people of the city. It was great!!! So now onward to the ocean.

Two days to Santiago

Wow it has been so beautiful these past days. Then sun is shining continuously and my nose can feel it. The path is becoming more crowded as there are so many more people when you get close to Santiago. But much less after walking to the ocean. The landscape has been completely epic everyday with amazing paths with shaded trees, pine forests, eucalyptus trees, little villages more ofter and rarely walking on main roads. This is what I imagined the Camino to be. The excitement in peoples faces is growing as we all know we will be there soon.
My body is holding up well and to this day I have had only one blister which is a miracle in itself. I usually change my socks halfway through the day. My hip is the only constant problem but you really learn to smile through pain. It´s not that bad really. Next steps are bringing me closer and closer to Santiago. Two days and then three more to the ocean.
The truths of the road are becoming clearer and clearer to me each day. The interesting thing is that most of life is an interconnected series of strings that we can either acknowledge or totally ignore. The problem is that when we are in our daily lives, repetition sets in and we forget to look with intrigue to where these strings may be at work. These connections are what brings meaning and purpose to most of the little, random, and regularly insignificant happenings in our daily life. When you have a bit more time to reflect and engage, these connections become monumental and you end up listening more to the world around you. The camino provides the space and time to utilize such reflections. The key is to make this time in our daily lives. Look for the strings and realize there is no man/woman behind the curtain. There is only a curtain if you accept it. You are the Wizard and Oz is everywhere, just follow the yellow arrows. Love to you all!!

Mountains, Turists, Sunshine and May Day!!!

So May 2nd only 5 more days until Santiago!!! Feeling very good and the most rigorous parts are over. Climbed and descended the mountain range in the last two days. Amazing views of both Castilla y Leon and Galicia. The Albegue that I stayed at last night was on the ridge of the mountain range, incredible!! 360 degrees of amazing views. The ascent was very difficult and steep, but as I said before when the challenge gets harder something inside of me clicks and I step up the tempo. I really flew up the mountain stopping occasionally to take pictures and drink some water. Your appreciation for the views at the top and along the way is so much more because you really earned them by walking there. When I arrived at the top of the Mountain a town called O Cebriero all kinds of (Spanish) tourists were up there because it was may day which is international workers rights day. A day in which no one works unless you are selling alcohol. So the bars in this little village were totally packed and one of them had all the tables pushed together to accommodate a large group. This large group was amazing, they had instruments and were singing songs all day. They were primarily in one bar but then without warning descended onto each bar and restaurant to sing and join people in the celebration. It was truly wonderful and uplifting, I wish I knew some of the words to these songs because every single Spanish person did. I clapped along and gave a lot of moral support! HA!!
OK so when I talk about tourists you have to realize that there are many different types. At this point I am in Galacia which means Santiago is closer than ever. Right now only 133 kilometers left. So the largest density of people walking is now upon me. So many people walk only the last part and do not start from Burgos or even farther like the really hardcore people who started in France. Also these would be pilgrims who are really only cheaters don´t even carry their own bags. They have a service take them from town to town. They bring their little day packs and stop at every restaurant to have a beer. Tourists!! Haha!! I am not bitter but when you have walked for the last 16 days, everyday with everything you have on your back and they show up right at the end, it gets to you while your out there walking. The strangest part is they are all Germans!! Nothing against Germans but at times on the Camino I feel as if I am in Germany. I believe it is because a famous comedian named Harpe or something wrote a book about the Camino and it was a huge hit in Germany. So now there has been a huge influx of adventurous but not too adventurous Germans. Its funny how proud you feel after carrying everything you have on your back and never taking a bus and looking behind you and saying, ¨I can´t even see where I started walking.¨ HA!!! The tourists do not take this feeling away in the least. They also help each of these small towns by bringing in outside money.
Sunshine all day today and yesterday. Last mountain I climbed was in the rain and snow but this one oh how clear and warm it was. Such a pleasure to walk in this type of weather. It changes everything.
So only five days to Santiago but I will be walking to the ocean. I have decided to walk the three extra days after Santiago to Finisterra, which literally means end of the earth. This makes so much more sense as I want to walk until I can not walk anymore. Unless a miracle happens and I walk on water all the way back to the states. I don´t think this will happen so the plan is to walk to the ocean, jump in of course, burn some of my cloths and anything else I want to and then take the bus back to Santiago. I have until the 11th. I think I have exactly enough time. So excited!!! OK that's it for now. Much love Roberto

Rain, Snow, Wind, Hail, Moutains, made it!!!!

So that was an adventure. I was last in Astorga a beautiful city with a most amazing catedral and Castle designed by Gaudi. The next day was the accent on the mountain. Fair weather nothing to out of the ordinary scattered clouds, windy and a bit cold. I luckily brought enough cloths, wearing everything I am warm. The day following was the day to summit and come down. Well like the title of this post it was crazy. First rain, then hail, then snow. I stoped in a little cafe to have a coffee and a shot of wisky, then back out into the cold. Again my poncho kicks major ass and I was totally ok. It was quite challenging but I have grown very resilient here and I have a fierce determination to get to Santiago especially after 2 weeks of walking. Its incredible!!! At the top I could see the valley below and each little town on the way down the mountain. Beautiful slate roofs, wooly looking dogs, and Peregrinos everywhere seeking shelter in a bar on cafe. The small villages along this part of the camino are priceless. The beauty of the small streets, balony´s littered with flowers and beautiful old wooden doors. I could totally settle down here, but me settling down, ha like thats gonna happen any time soon. So coming down the rest of the mountain was a breeze comparred to the summit. Also at the summit there is the ¨Cruz de Ferro¨which is a cross that most perigrinos leave a stone from their home town with some kind of writing on it. Also pictures of loved ones, letters, cumpases all kinds of stuff. The landscpae is constantly breathtaking as the pine forests are dense and the mountains ranges expansive. The valley below is filled with vinyards and really strange looking small grape tree´s. Tomorrow is another assent on the second mountain, no summiting tomorrow though. The day after it will be a town called O Cebriero which is on the border of Castilla y Leon and Galecia. Time for a new state and I hear it is beautiful. Hopefully some warmer days and a couple of nice rivers to take a dip in. Still walking, still smiling, still learning. love
Roberto

My foort turned into a cantelope and a word on the surroundings.

Well after my record setting day I realized that my foot was growing steadily. It did not necessarily hurt it was just pushed to the max and started to let me know. On this walk your body is constantly speaking to you in various was most of the time through pain. You have to listen and not push it too much as we all want to make it to Santiago. So as most people on this walk have already gone through these problems I was helped extensively by a good friend. She know how to do everything and even had some herbs that she had picked along the way that are good against inflammation. My foot began to go down and I had some ibuprofen and hit the sack. Today is was a lot better and I could walk on it just fine. I only walked 16 kilometers today as I wanted to give my body a bit of a rest before climbing the mountains tomorrow. We will be going up to 1400meters. Pretty high and there is snow on them there hills.
So as far as the landscape its been pretty repetitive. The area between Burgos and Leon (what I have just walked) is mainly maseta which is long fields of corn, and because it is the beginning of the planting season it was mostly young corn or dry dirt. This was a bit anticlimactic as I was thinking about frolicking through the woods. But each landscape teaches you something different. As I am a very impatient person the Maseta fields where my teacher in patience and peace of mind. There were occasional rivers and tree´s but not that many. The sky has been the most interesting and beautiful part of the scape´s. The clouds have been every shape you can imagine and have given a lot of depth to the walking. I am excited about the mountains and Galecia which is the next state over. Galecia is supposed to be the most beautiful part of the walk and its the last part which is great. Today I am in Astorga the littlest big town on the camino with a beautiful Cathedral that was designed by Gaudi. I am staying a block from it as the Albergue is always close to the churches. We always have epic locations because of the respect of the Camion to the spanish people. Well as the landscape changes more I will keep you informed. Peace love Roberto

My Body Hurts

Well its true. After a nice day of less walking around Leon I pushed myself to the max today walking 37kilometers, the most in one day so far. The problem is that the one day rest throws your body out of rhythm so you have to acclimate to the pain again like its the first time. Stretching and more stretching will heal all aches. Thankfully it is going to rain tomorrow, (trying to be positive about it) and that will help my sunburns. I have great rain gear thanks to a kick ass friend of mine named Sebastian in Portland. The poncho is so kick ass its not even funny it goes all the way to my knees. Everyone has rain paints but I have the poncho dress!! Awesome thanks Sebas!!!! I am going to try to keep a more lengthy pace as I want to move a little faster in the next week and give myself extra time to traverse the two mountain ranges that stand in my way. Until now it has been completely flat and long stretches of dry corn fields, the maseta! An occasional river and canal to make things a bit interesting but for the most part a little repetitive. I read in my guidebook that a lot of pilgrims take a bus between Burgos and Leon. I think that is totally ridiculous, once you have started walking getting into a moving vehicle is just totally demoralizing for the rest of the journey. This is only my opinion. I could not set foot into a bus no way!! I have been getting a lot of reactions to the drum lately as people as so astonished that I would think to walk with it. Like I´m crazy!! Well I am so no big deal. Most of the time it is the young Spanish kids and teenagers that want me to either play for them or they want to try. Its a great way to engage with your surroundings without having to say anything, people literally come up to me or yell at me ¨puedes tocar el tambor por favor.¨ It is heart warming every time and I can not be happier with my decision to bring it. Well its time to stretch and drink wine as it make most of the pain go away, only most. Tomorrow another 30 kilometers and then a mountain range, I am so excited for a different landscape. Perpetually stoked!!!! Roberto

Leon Leon Leon

What a city. Well the fist large leg of the journey is behind me. I feel great and my body is responding well. I only have a slight pain in my hip other than that I feel like a spring chicken. I have taken my first rest day since the beginning of the trip. What a place to stay an extra day. The cities in Spain are amazing with small corridors branching off in all directions its hard not to get lost. I have figured the rest of my travels out and it seems that I will be able to walk all the way to the ocean to burn my cloths at the end!!! What a way to finish. Not all of them of course. I am happy as ever and have started documenting in a different way than I had intended in the beginning. It is a written documentation instead of audio. It is less abrasive and it gives each person a bit of time to actually form their thoughts about why they are walking this amazing adventure. So for all of those who are back in Portland I will need some translators for German and French! HAHAHA I would rather let them write in their native dialect then force them to write in English. I will be back on the road tomorrow and soon will be in the mountains. Looking forward to some days of different landscapes. Has been primarily flat up until now. Good way to start for the virgin legs. I am now going to play my drum in a plaza and try to make a bit of money, here goes!!! Besos

A word on Accomadation

So as I walk, the places in which I get to hang my hat change in size and amenities. So far I have been in the nicest of places with heaters in the rooms and beautiful tile floors but the contrast to a building that has been around for centuries and the wind blows through it as if there is always a window open is quite stark. Some rustic, some with kitchens, others with dinner served and all comfortable beds that have held more peregrinos than I could ever comprehend. Each town has a different character and most are all built around the albergue. It is the focal point to many of these small villages that would be swallowed up in this industrially complex world had it not been for the camino and its constant flow of pilgrims. My favorite are the old rustic ones with kind wonderful people that are so happy to see you and treat you like royalty. The nicer ones usually feel impersonal and a bit out of the ordinary. Being able to cook your own food in the evening is quite rewarding. The last place I stayed was a volunteer run albergue and you only leave donations. It was run by this wonderful woman who was so happy to welcome everyone with open arms and the most charming hospitality. Also dinner and breakfast are free in these albergue´s and there is only one big table so we all had to sit around it, as well when it came to cooking and cleaning we all shared in the work. 20 pilgrims toasting and languages flying around like crazy. I couldn't stop smiling the whole time. It was a beautiful display of camaraderie and community. We are a traveling family and last night was our first meal all together. The majority of people are french, but there are people from all over the world. At this point we all know each other and it is a wonderful experience to share with so many. We all have the same problems and at the end of the walking day we all share the same pains. At this point right now my friend is getting her foot worked on by the lady who runs the albergue, the support on this camino is incredible and every person wants to help you in some way. I can´t tell you all how amazing this trip is and each and every one of you should think of making a pilgrimage at some point. REALLY!!!!!

Wonderous Road

The magic of the camino is now becoming clear. Where am I going, where did I come from and where the hell am I now. All is visible from a pilgrims vantage point. Past present and future in a manageable space and time. I have encountered many wonderful people most going through some kind of transition and looking for some answers. I feel most of us are looking for answers to questions that possibly haven´t been formed yet. Well the truth is in your steps and the kilometers that you travel. Each day is a new adventure to take you to another unknown city and interact with unknown people. It is a constant surprise. Yesterday as we were amidst the fog a little Spanish man who was singing approached us. His name Alejandro del Camino. Un amigo de los Peregrinos. It seemed like a dream who the hell is this guy and where did he come from we are in the middle of nowhere and poof there he is. Many times on this walk I feel as if I am dreaming. Things seem unlike regular life and you refer to previous life as ¨back in the real world.¨ This seems like an alternate universe where everyone talks to one another and we are all connected on a common mission. In this case it is to get to Santiago but I think back in the real world we all yearn for this similar connectedness with the people around us. I am now in Carrion de los Condes a cute little city that has so much charm. I just finished having tapas with my friend Dia and eating a little ice cream. The contrast between being out in the middle of nowhere to being in the city again with its amenities is very peculiar but the effect of the road is lasting and transcends the city walls. You thirst for the open spaces and the tranquility every morning and it is quenched by 8:30am. That's the life so far and what I have learned!!!

3 Days in no Blisters and God damn I´m Happy

Well it has been nothing short of amazing so far. I have walked a total of 80 kilometers in the past three days. The landscape is breathtaking the people generous and kind and the diversity of pilgrims insane! The amount of infrastructure set up for us is impeccable. There is an albergue in every town, which is like a hostel but with dormitories to sleep in for either 3 or 5 euros a night. The days are spent walking, talking and thinking, also at times you are reduced to a meditative state in which no thinking happens and you are just there. I have had a couple of moments where I had to say to myself out loud, ¨where the fuck am I,¨ The small villages are amazing and rustic with beautiful churches. The landscape so far has been flat which is good for me and my untrained legs. The feeling of contentment is resounding continuously. I can´t help thinking that this is exactly where I am supposed to be right now! The people on the Camino are introspective and engaging. Each with there own version of needing to get away from it all and slow down. Search for deeper meaning in their life and ask the timeless question of why am I alive and on this planet. Each encounter gives birth to a new idea and understanding. The coffee is amazing, the wine plentiful, and the bocadillos de tortilla espanola irresistible. I am having the time of my life and it is only day 4 of this adventure. I have begun to feel the pains in my feet in random places that may spread, have heard all kinds of stories of people needing to give up because of how hurt they were and most of all shared common expressions and grimaces about the pain with my fellow pilgrims. The camaraderie is incredible and every person you see boast a resounding ¨buen Camino.¨ This is only the first of many pilgrimages I will do in my life and most of you should realize that next time your coming with me.

Time to Walk

Good morning! I think I have slept enough for the next two days, maybe I will walk through the night. There is a large group of travelers that assembles in each hostel for one day. It is a moving community. We are all linked by the path, the open road and the thirst for something else. What it is I have no idea but I think I am starting to feel it. Today I walk!! It has been quite a journey to get here. Many trains to cars to planes to trains to buses to feet!! My feet are ready my head is clear and my belly full. It must be time to stretch and get walking. Pack your bag son you´ve got a road to catch!!!!!

Burgos

What an epically beautiful city. Spain has charm around every corner. The streets are small, the plazas are huge and everywhere you look there is public space. My kind of City!!! I spent most of the day walking around buying some supplies. People are so friendly! I got some amazing cheese and sandwich making materials for the next couple of days. After the long walk around town I decided to take a nap, well I just got up and it´s 10:30. WOW that was a long one. I will be very well rested for tomorrow´s commencement. I feel great!!! I just need to do some stretching and a little reading before I go back to la cama. Some words I wrote when I first boarded the plain in Seattle

¨Moving quickly to attempt slowing down. Each path with accelerated machinery will lead me to a place with decelerated scenery and a patient foot, one lead by the other. My most important asset and best fiends are my feet. Together we will move forward through time and space at an impressively slow pace. This way I won´t miss anything and I´ll be able to keep up with Myself. No more running ahead Roberto time to face each thought, and emotion when it happens while its happening. No distractions, well less with more attractions, attract me to the next Albergue! Time to fly Accelerated Motion!¨

Burgos Primer Dia

Well I made it. The Albergue is amazing. It is the place where all the pilgrams stay. The infrastructure for people doing the walk is amazing already. THey have everything you could possibly need and it only costs 3 euro a night. Amazing!!! I might be able to save some of my money after all. haha. As you walk around the town you can tell who is on the path. The scruffy looking ones with gear and a walking stick usually. (The walking stick is used to fight off the wild dogs) It feels amazing to be here and I already feel a part of a community of walkers, caminantes. So I´m going to go stretch and get ready for the big day tomorrow. I start walking... YEAHOOOOOOOO