To the End of the Earth

The final three days on the camino were by far the best. After walking the most populated part of the walk, the final 5 stages before Santiago, where the tourism is at the highest point. Getting back to the open road with so few people is exactly the way you want to end a trip like this. The landscapes more beautiful. The time for contemplation longer, the eucalyptus groves, the pine forests, the huge rivers with old roman bridges, and then the best part of all, the ocean and its forgiving embrace to engulf your tired body. The albergues were nicer, the people who were walking were only the authentic pilgrims or even the really hardcore ones because it takes a hardcore pilgrim to walk to the end of the earth. The food amazing and the pure joy that you could see emanating from each persons face was like a supernova exploding in space. This was just sped up a bit more, as supernova's take quite a long time. the last day was most magical as it should be and I walked the final 3 kilometers barefoot after my dip in the ocean, on the private pilgrim beach. A friend of mine left me some OJ on the trail without even knowing it would be me who drank it. So magical. I really wanted some as I was feeling a little sick the last couple of days. Don't worry nothing could have held me back at that point. Upon arriving it began to rain as the camino wanted to wash away the past and help me embrace the new days to come. We had a wonderful dinner that night with 8 people sitting around the table smiling, telling stories (some about dogs) and drinking lots of wine. The wine flows in Spain, if you didn't already know that. We then retreated to the beach where I played the drum and we all celebrated like crazy. I did not end up burning my cloths as I had lost a bunch of them and needed what I had left to get through the next couple of days. ha!! The next day we walked to the Faro which is the lighthouse and gazed out at the large expansive ocean that I had walked so many kilometers to. It was a humbling feeling and I felt as though I would be here again in my life. This is only the first time. Who's coming with me?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!!!!

Dogs

Ok so this is a really important fact about the camino, there are a lot of dogs. Every small town or big city for that matter has numerous dogs. The camino friend that you don't always want to see. You want to see them on a leash or behind a fence, not running around a corner barking and showing its teeth. This is just one scenario that I had to deal with. It was funny because every pilgrim I talked to that night had to deal with the same angry white dog with the broken chain. The dogs in Spain bark all day and all night. I blame it on the owners as they don't get reprimanded for barking, but in the owners defense I think that's why they have the dog in the first place. To be the first line of defense against any intruders. It really gets old after a while though because every time you enter a town you know you will have to be confronted by dogs barking or maybe even running after you. This is where the purpose of the walking stick becomes multifunctional. I never had to use a stick in defense but you sure feel that much more confident walking into a city with a stick than just your hands and no possible way to run. ha So word to the wise bring some kibble or dog treats next time. I think the best way to get through the situation is befriending the animal, but have the stick just in case.

Santiago, 45 kilometers in one day and sleeping in a Field

Santiago!!!!
Well I arrived yesterday at 1pm in the afternoon. Only walked 5 kilometers as I spend the entire day before walking and well into the night. We walked until 3 in the morning and then found a field to sleep in so that the next day would be a short one. I had wanted to sleep outside at least one night so my dream came true. It was a bit cold but not to bad. As I got closer to the Cathedral I started playing my drum loudly in the streets as the excitement was monumental! When entering the plaza I sat down and pondered the meaning of all of this walking. I realized as we all do it is definitely not the destination but the journey I was searching for. Also I felt that this was not the end. As I am walking another 3 days to the ocean. It is a more fitting way for things to end. In the plaza people were hugging, taking pictures, smoking victory cigars, and congratulating each other it was amazing!!!
My body feels stronger than every and I actually am getting used to this daily routine and I could really continue if I had some time. There are at least 4 other routes that leave from Santiago. Next time, next time!! I hope some of you already realize that your coming with me next time. The city is beautiful and I have seen a lot of people that I had hoped to see again here at the ending point. A great group and the congratulations is amazing. I got a certificate yesterday, kinda cool but not that big of a deal. The real certificate is in my soul and on the souls of my feat. HA!!! Took a victory shot of tequila last night and they actually gave it to me for free. Also played my drum in the streets making music and interacting with people of the city. It was great!!! So now onward to the ocean.

Two days to Santiago

Wow it has been so beautiful these past days. Then sun is shining continuously and my nose can feel it. The path is becoming more crowded as there are so many more people when you get close to Santiago. But much less after walking to the ocean. The landscape has been completely epic everyday with amazing paths with shaded trees, pine forests, eucalyptus trees, little villages more ofter and rarely walking on main roads. This is what I imagined the Camino to be. The excitement in peoples faces is growing as we all know we will be there soon.
My body is holding up well and to this day I have had only one blister which is a miracle in itself. I usually change my socks halfway through the day. My hip is the only constant problem but you really learn to smile through pain. It´s not that bad really. Next steps are bringing me closer and closer to Santiago. Two days and then three more to the ocean.
The truths of the road are becoming clearer and clearer to me each day. The interesting thing is that most of life is an interconnected series of strings that we can either acknowledge or totally ignore. The problem is that when we are in our daily lives, repetition sets in and we forget to look with intrigue to where these strings may be at work. These connections are what brings meaning and purpose to most of the little, random, and regularly insignificant happenings in our daily life. When you have a bit more time to reflect and engage, these connections become monumental and you end up listening more to the world around you. The camino provides the space and time to utilize such reflections. The key is to make this time in our daily lives. Look for the strings and realize there is no man/woman behind the curtain. There is only a curtain if you accept it. You are the Wizard and Oz is everywhere, just follow the yellow arrows. Love to you all!!

Mountains, Turists, Sunshine and May Day!!!

So May 2nd only 5 more days until Santiago!!! Feeling very good and the most rigorous parts are over. Climbed and descended the mountain range in the last two days. Amazing views of both Castilla y Leon and Galicia. The Albegue that I stayed at last night was on the ridge of the mountain range, incredible!! 360 degrees of amazing views. The ascent was very difficult and steep, but as I said before when the challenge gets harder something inside of me clicks and I step up the tempo. I really flew up the mountain stopping occasionally to take pictures and drink some water. Your appreciation for the views at the top and along the way is so much more because you really earned them by walking there. When I arrived at the top of the Mountain a town called O Cebriero all kinds of (Spanish) tourists were up there because it was may day which is international workers rights day. A day in which no one works unless you are selling alcohol. So the bars in this little village were totally packed and one of them had all the tables pushed together to accommodate a large group. This large group was amazing, they had instruments and were singing songs all day. They were primarily in one bar but then without warning descended onto each bar and restaurant to sing and join people in the celebration. It was truly wonderful and uplifting, I wish I knew some of the words to these songs because every single Spanish person did. I clapped along and gave a lot of moral support! HA!!
OK so when I talk about tourists you have to realize that there are many different types. At this point I am in Galacia which means Santiago is closer than ever. Right now only 133 kilometers left. So the largest density of people walking is now upon me. So many people walk only the last part and do not start from Burgos or even farther like the really hardcore people who started in France. Also these would be pilgrims who are really only cheaters don´t even carry their own bags. They have a service take them from town to town. They bring their little day packs and stop at every restaurant to have a beer. Tourists!! Haha!! I am not bitter but when you have walked for the last 16 days, everyday with everything you have on your back and they show up right at the end, it gets to you while your out there walking. The strangest part is they are all Germans!! Nothing against Germans but at times on the Camino I feel as if I am in Germany. I believe it is because a famous comedian named Harpe or something wrote a book about the Camino and it was a huge hit in Germany. So now there has been a huge influx of adventurous but not too adventurous Germans. Its funny how proud you feel after carrying everything you have on your back and never taking a bus and looking behind you and saying, ¨I can´t even see where I started walking.¨ HA!!! The tourists do not take this feeling away in the least. They also help each of these small towns by bringing in outside money.
Sunshine all day today and yesterday. Last mountain I climbed was in the rain and snow but this one oh how clear and warm it was. Such a pleasure to walk in this type of weather. It changes everything.
So only five days to Santiago but I will be walking to the ocean. I have decided to walk the three extra days after Santiago to Finisterra, which literally means end of the earth. This makes so much more sense as I want to walk until I can not walk anymore. Unless a miracle happens and I walk on water all the way back to the states. I don´t think this will happen so the plan is to walk to the ocean, jump in of course, burn some of my cloths and anything else I want to and then take the bus back to Santiago. I have until the 11th. I think I have exactly enough time. So excited!!! OK that's it for now. Much love Roberto

Rain, Snow, Wind, Hail, Moutains, made it!!!!

So that was an adventure. I was last in Astorga a beautiful city with a most amazing catedral and Castle designed by Gaudi. The next day was the accent on the mountain. Fair weather nothing to out of the ordinary scattered clouds, windy and a bit cold. I luckily brought enough cloths, wearing everything I am warm. The day following was the day to summit and come down. Well like the title of this post it was crazy. First rain, then hail, then snow. I stoped in a little cafe to have a coffee and a shot of wisky, then back out into the cold. Again my poncho kicks major ass and I was totally ok. It was quite challenging but I have grown very resilient here and I have a fierce determination to get to Santiago especially after 2 weeks of walking. Its incredible!!! At the top I could see the valley below and each little town on the way down the mountain. Beautiful slate roofs, wooly looking dogs, and Peregrinos everywhere seeking shelter in a bar on cafe. The small villages along this part of the camino are priceless. The beauty of the small streets, balony´s littered with flowers and beautiful old wooden doors. I could totally settle down here, but me settling down, ha like thats gonna happen any time soon. So coming down the rest of the mountain was a breeze comparred to the summit. Also at the summit there is the ¨Cruz de Ferro¨which is a cross that most perigrinos leave a stone from their home town with some kind of writing on it. Also pictures of loved ones, letters, cumpases all kinds of stuff. The landscpae is constantly breathtaking as the pine forests are dense and the mountains ranges expansive. The valley below is filled with vinyards and really strange looking small grape tree´s. Tomorrow is another assent on the second mountain, no summiting tomorrow though. The day after it will be a town called O Cebriero which is on the border of Castilla y Leon and Galecia. Time for a new state and I hear it is beautiful. Hopefully some warmer days and a couple of nice rivers to take a dip in. Still walking, still smiling, still learning. love
Roberto

My foort turned into a cantelope and a word on the surroundings.

Well after my record setting day I realized that my foot was growing steadily. It did not necessarily hurt it was just pushed to the max and started to let me know. On this walk your body is constantly speaking to you in various was most of the time through pain. You have to listen and not push it too much as we all want to make it to Santiago. So as most people on this walk have already gone through these problems I was helped extensively by a good friend. She know how to do everything and even had some herbs that she had picked along the way that are good against inflammation. My foot began to go down and I had some ibuprofen and hit the sack. Today is was a lot better and I could walk on it just fine. I only walked 16 kilometers today as I wanted to give my body a bit of a rest before climbing the mountains tomorrow. We will be going up to 1400meters. Pretty high and there is snow on them there hills.
So as far as the landscape its been pretty repetitive. The area between Burgos and Leon (what I have just walked) is mainly maseta which is long fields of corn, and because it is the beginning of the planting season it was mostly young corn or dry dirt. This was a bit anticlimactic as I was thinking about frolicking through the woods. But each landscape teaches you something different. As I am a very impatient person the Maseta fields where my teacher in patience and peace of mind. There were occasional rivers and tree´s but not that many. The sky has been the most interesting and beautiful part of the scape´s. The clouds have been every shape you can imagine and have given a lot of depth to the walking. I am excited about the mountains and Galecia which is the next state over. Galecia is supposed to be the most beautiful part of the walk and its the last part which is great. Today I am in Astorga the littlest big town on the camino with a beautiful Cathedral that was designed by Gaudi. I am staying a block from it as the Albergue is always close to the churches. We always have epic locations because of the respect of the Camion to the spanish people. Well as the landscape changes more I will keep you informed. Peace love Roberto